Modern Tea Customs

Different tea leaves require different brewing methods. Modern tea brewers are continuously testing and discovering new brewing methods or changing and perfecting old brewing methods. Gongfu tea, as a type of brewing method, is internationally popular. There are many different schools of Gongfu tea. such as Southern Min Gongfu tea, Taiwan Gongfu tea, Beijing Gongfu tea. Shanghai Gongfu tea, etc. Oolong tea, black tea, dark tea, green tea, yellow tea, white tea, all the teas of the tea family can be brewed in the Gongfu tea brewing method. The tea sets used for Gongfu tea is even more varied. For the Japanese teapots, one can use Zisha, porcelain, glass, etc. The tea tray is no longer just a simple round porcelain tray. It now comes in wood, bamboo, stainless steel, clay or stone. It can be double-layered or single-layered. Also, there are additional items such as the fairness cup, aroma cup and the strainer.
Today, the pace of life is fast. Therefore, there are now types of tea that are both fast and convenient. Examples include tea bags, instant tea, tea concentrate and even canned or bottled tea. The 21 st century is a century of tea. Chinese tea will continue to spread its fragrance and become a universal health drink.

Gongfu Tea

According to research, Gongfu tea originated in the later Ming Dynasty. It gained popularity in the Qing Dynasty and was renowned in Chaozhou. Gongfu tea was produced in Fujian Province. Today, almost every household in Chaozhou has a Gongfu tea set. To brew a cup of Gongfu tea during family reunions or when friends come to visit is a Chaozhou and Guangdong custom. Gongfu Teas was originally the name of a type of tea leaf. It refers to the best quality Wuyi Yan tea leaf. During the reign of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, Lu Yancan, governor of Cong'an Prefecture in Fujian (the current Wuyi Shan City) once quoted the following passage from Observation Records in his book. Sequel to the Classic of Tea, “In Mt Wuyi, tea leaves picked from the top of the mountain is known as Yan Tea. Tea leaves picked from the waterside is known as Zhou Tea. Yan Tea is top quality, Zhou Tea is second.
Yan Tea from the northern peak is the best; Yan Tea from the southern peak is second.
The two types of tea leaves are named after the mountains from where they were picked. The best of these are known as "Gongfu Tea." the earliest recorded method of brewing Gongfu tea is in the 51 st year of the reign of Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty. It was recorded by Yuan Mei (1716-1797) in his book, Sui Yuan Recipes. In the chapter "Wine and Tea." under Wuyi Tea, he recorded. The cup should be as small as a walnut the pot as small as a citron. Each brew will not exceed 50 gram. One would not bear to sip it immediately, but will first inhale its scent before taking a sip. One would slowly sip the brew and appreciate the taste..." The text records in detail his travels in Mt. Wuyi. Everyone offered their guests tea brewed in miniature teapots and drank from tiny cups. He also recorded that the custom was to first inhale the scent before taking a sip and that the tea still had a strong flavor even after being brewed for three rounds. These descriptions described using the Gonglu tea brewing method to brew Wuyi tea leaves. Thus, we can see that during mid-Qing Dynasty. Gongfu tea was already popular in the northern Min area.
The formal naming as "Gongfu Tea" was by the Xingning Prefecture's historian Yu Jiao in Guangdong. He detailed the entire process of Gongfu tea brewing method in his book Mengchang Zazhu
Prepare a stove, a teapot and a tray. Use Zisha teapot and small porcelain teacups. The number of cups depends on the number of guests.

Use spring water to brew the tea.

Use charcoal to boil the water, and brew the tea with water that has just reached boiling point.

Seal the teapot when brewing the tea.

Sip the tea slowly.
Similar to the methods of brewing tea, the tea set used in the Tang and Song dynasties are very different from that used in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is said that Su Shi of the Song Dynasty made his own overhead handle Zisha teapot, and that there are numerous famous makers of Zisha teapot in the Ming Dynasty. This particular type of teapot is exceedingly important in the brewing of Gongfu tea.
The brewing of Gongfu tea began and was perfected in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It was popularized in the Min and Yue area, and became the famous Chaoshan Gongfu Tea. It formed the foundation for the modern method of brewing tea and is still one of the most important methods of brewing tea today.

Zhang Yuan And The Tea Records

Ming Dynasty published the most number of tea books in China. The most famous and representative of these tea books is Zhang Yuan's Tea Records. The book contains more than 1,500 words. The content touched on picking tea, distinguishing tea, storing tea, identifying the temperature of the water, methods of brewing, methods of adding tea leaves, the color, fragrance and taste of tea, choosing quality spring or well water, storing water, tea sets, etc. It is notable for proposing new views on brewing tea. Zhang Yuan believed that dried green tea should be boiled with boiling water in order to achieve the true flavor of the tea. He also proposed that the teapot should be warmed before adding tea leaves. He was very particular about adding tea leaves. Zhang Yuan also proposed that when appreciating tea, the less the number of people present the better. The spirit of tea is best appreciated alone. These were all ideas not previously seen in the Classic of Tea.
Kangxi and Qianlong (Qing Dynasty) left behind many tea poems. Qianlong alone wrote more than 200 tea poems. In addition, he left 18 royally planted tea plants. He also named Beijing's Jade Springs as the top spring of the world.

Ming And Qing Tea Customs

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, tea production improved greatly. In 1381, the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang promoted the development of loose tea leaves. The production of green tea developed from steamed green tea to pan-dried green tea. Other tea varieties, such as floral tea, dark tea, black tea, Oolong tea, white tea and yellow tea also made their appearance. Tea drinking became a simple process of adding tea leaves in a tea bowl or teapot and adding heated water. This method retained the original flavor and scent of the tea leaves.

"Fen Cha," Tea Art

"Fen Cha" is also known as the "theater of tea." It is a game that began among the people of the northern Song Dynasty. In this, one has to first grind the tea into powder, then pour it into the tea cup. Next, add water, whisk and form an image on the surface of the liquid. This is known as “water calligraphy." It is said that a master tea artist, a monk named Fuquan, could whisk four cups of tea at the same time and produce tea with images of poetry, landscape paintings, floral and animal paintings. Sadly, this art has long since been lost.
The culture of drinking tea began in the Tang Dynasty and gained popularity in the Song Dynasty. This reflects the prosperity of that era. Tea is not merely an important item of life. The emperors" love for tea resulted in the inclusion of tea in court. The scholars’ love of tea resulted in a legacy of many tea poems, tea paintings and tea books. Teahouses filled the streets, providing entertainment venues for the people. Many tea-related customs were created as well.
Steamed Oolong loose leaf tea was sold in the market, and became an alternative simpler way of brewing tea. Tea disks were replaced by loose leaf tea.

Tea Competition

Tea competition is the ability to distinguish the quality of the tea. It began in the Tang Dynasty and became a social game of comparing tea quality and competing tea techniques. In a tea competition, the first item on the agenda is the quality of tea disks. The tea disks must be made from tender fresh leaves and finely produced. The quality of the tea disks directly affect the color of the tea liquid. The liquid should be pure white. In order to protect the tea disk from absorbing other scents or dampness, a layer of oil is applied to the surface and it is wrapped in bamboo paper before being put in a tea basket.
Next is the tencha technique. This includes the choosing and boiling of water. Spring water is the best. The most difficult part of boiling the water is distinguishing the temperature through listening to the sound of boiling water. Alternatively, the quality of the tea leaves can also be used to determine the temperature of the water. Tender tea leaves are brewed with young water. The froth on the tea is also an important factor. It should be pure white in color, lasting, slender and balanced. The longer the liquid is hidden under the froth, the better the quality of the tea. The finer the tea, the easier it is for the tea to dissolve in the water and form froth. In order to highlight the pure white color of the tea, use a black teacup. The teacup should be deep and with a large width. The best tea cups is the rabbit-hair tea cups from Jian’an kiln of that era. The cup is heavy and keeps the tea warm. In addition, when whisking the tea, use a strong whisk or teaspoon. Use a small kettle to boil the water. The spout should be long with a tiny mouth. This makes it easier to tell the temperature.

Zhao Ji And Da Guan Theories Of Tea

All the emperors of the Song Dynasty were tea lovers. They frequently held tea gatherings in the palace. Emperor Huizong, Zhao Ji was the author of the book, Da Guan Theories of Tea.
He was the first emperor in history to write a book on tea. Huizong was a master in the art of tea making and tea, and frequently personally brewed tencha for his officials. Da Guan Theories of Tea has 20 chapters. It records in detail the production place, the environment, the climate, the time and method of harvest, the process of steaming and producing tea, the methods of distinguishing the quality of tea disks, the various equipment and water used in tencha. It also records the color, fragrance and taste of various tea leaves, the baking and storing of tea leaves, the names of tea leaves, etc.