Modern Tea Customs

Different tea leaves require different brewing methods. Modern tea brewers are continuously testing and discovering new brewing methods or changing and perfecting old brewing methods. Gongfu tea, as a type of brewing method, is internationally popular. There are many different schools of Gongfu tea. such as Southern Min Gongfu tea, Taiwan Gongfu tea, Beijing Gongfu tea. Shanghai Gongfu tea, etc. Oolong tea, black tea, dark tea, green tea, yellow tea, white tea, all the teas of the tea family can be brewed in the Gongfu tea brewing method. The tea sets used for Gongfu tea is even more varied. For the Japanese teapots, one can use Zisha, porcelain, glass, etc. The tea tray is no longer just a simple round porcelain tray. It now comes in wood, bamboo, stainless steel, clay or stone. It can be double-layered or single-layered. Also, there are additional items such as the fairness cup, aroma cup and the strainer.
Today, the pace of life is fast. Therefore, there are now types of tea that are both fast and convenient. Examples include tea bags, instant tea, tea concentrate and even canned or bottled tea. The 21 st century is a century of tea. Chinese tea will continue to spread its fragrance and become a universal health drink.

Gongfu Tea

According to research, Gongfu tea originated in the later Ming Dynasty. It gained popularity in the Qing Dynasty and was renowned in Chaozhou. Gongfu tea was produced in Fujian Province. Today, almost every household in Chaozhou has a Gongfu tea set. To brew a cup of Gongfu tea during family reunions or when friends come to visit is a Chaozhou and Guangdong custom. Gongfu Teas was originally the name of a type of tea leaf. It refers to the best quality Wuyi Yan tea leaf. During the reign of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, Lu Yancan, governor of Cong'an Prefecture in Fujian (the current Wuyi Shan City) once quoted the following passage from Observation Records in his book. Sequel to the Classic of Tea, “In Mt Wuyi, tea leaves picked from the top of the mountain is known as Yan Tea. Tea leaves picked from the waterside is known as Zhou Tea. Yan Tea is top quality, Zhou Tea is second.
Yan Tea from the northern peak is the best; Yan Tea from the southern peak is second.
The two types of tea leaves are named after the mountains from where they were picked. The best of these are known as "Gongfu Tea." the earliest recorded method of brewing Gongfu tea is in the 51 st year of the reign of Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty. It was recorded by Yuan Mei (1716-1797) in his book, Sui Yuan Recipes. In the chapter "Wine and Tea." under Wuyi Tea, he recorded. The cup should be as small as a walnut the pot as small as a citron. Each brew will not exceed 50 gram. One would not bear to sip it immediately, but will first inhale its scent before taking a sip. One would slowly sip the brew and appreciate the taste..." The text records in detail his travels in Mt. Wuyi. Everyone offered their guests tea brewed in miniature teapots and drank from tiny cups. He also recorded that the custom was to first inhale the scent before taking a sip and that the tea still had a strong flavor even after being brewed for three rounds. These descriptions described using the Gonglu tea brewing method to brew Wuyi tea leaves. Thus, we can see that during mid-Qing Dynasty. Gongfu tea was already popular in the northern Min area.
The formal naming as "Gongfu Tea" was by the Xingning Prefecture's historian Yu Jiao in Guangdong. He detailed the entire process of Gongfu tea brewing method in his book Mengchang Zazhu
Prepare a stove, a teapot and a tray. Use Zisha teapot and small porcelain teacups. The number of cups depends on the number of guests.

Use spring water to brew the tea.

Use charcoal to boil the water, and brew the tea with water that has just reached boiling point.

Seal the teapot when brewing the tea.

Sip the tea slowly.
Similar to the methods of brewing tea, the tea set used in the Tang and Song dynasties are very different from that used in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is said that Su Shi of the Song Dynasty made his own overhead handle Zisha teapot, and that there are numerous famous makers of Zisha teapot in the Ming Dynasty. This particular type of teapot is exceedingly important in the brewing of Gongfu tea.
The brewing of Gongfu tea began and was perfected in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It was popularized in the Min and Yue area, and became the famous Chaoshan Gongfu Tea. It formed the foundation for the modern method of brewing tea and is still one of the most important methods of brewing tea today.

Zhang Yuan And The Tea Records

Ming Dynasty published the most number of tea books in China. The most famous and representative of these tea books is Zhang Yuan's Tea Records. The book contains more than 1,500 words. The content touched on picking tea, distinguishing tea, storing tea, identifying the temperature of the water, methods of brewing, methods of adding tea leaves, the color, fragrance and taste of tea, choosing quality spring or well water, storing water, tea sets, etc. It is notable for proposing new views on brewing tea. Zhang Yuan believed that dried green tea should be boiled with boiling water in order to achieve the true flavor of the tea. He also proposed that the teapot should be warmed before adding tea leaves. He was very particular about adding tea leaves. Zhang Yuan also proposed that when appreciating tea, the less the number of people present the better. The spirit of tea is best appreciated alone. These were all ideas not previously seen in the Classic of Tea.
Kangxi and Qianlong (Qing Dynasty) left behind many tea poems. Qianlong alone wrote more than 200 tea poems. In addition, he left 18 royally planted tea plants. He also named Beijing's Jade Springs as the top spring of the world.

Ming And Qing Tea Customs

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, tea production improved greatly. In 1381, the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang promoted the development of loose tea leaves. The production of green tea developed from steamed green tea to pan-dried green tea. Other tea varieties, such as floral tea, dark tea, black tea, Oolong tea, white tea and yellow tea also made their appearance. Tea drinking became a simple process of adding tea leaves in a tea bowl or teapot and adding heated water. This method retained the original flavor and scent of the tea leaves.

"Fen Cha," Tea Art

"Fen Cha" is also known as the "theater of tea." It is a game that began among the people of the northern Song Dynasty. In this, one has to first grind the tea into powder, then pour it into the tea cup. Next, add water, whisk and form an image on the surface of the liquid. This is known as “water calligraphy." It is said that a master tea artist, a monk named Fuquan, could whisk four cups of tea at the same time and produce tea with images of poetry, landscape paintings, floral and animal paintings. Sadly, this art has long since been lost.
The culture of drinking tea began in the Tang Dynasty and gained popularity in the Song Dynasty. This reflects the prosperity of that era. Tea is not merely an important item of life. The emperors" love for tea resulted in the inclusion of tea in court. The scholars’ love of tea resulted in a legacy of many tea poems, tea paintings and tea books. Teahouses filled the streets, providing entertainment venues for the people. Many tea-related customs were created as well.
Steamed Oolong loose leaf tea was sold in the market, and became an alternative simpler way of brewing tea. Tea disks were replaced by loose leaf tea.

Tea Competition

Tea competition is the ability to distinguish the quality of the tea. It began in the Tang Dynasty and became a social game of comparing tea quality and competing tea techniques. In a tea competition, the first item on the agenda is the quality of tea disks. The tea disks must be made from tender fresh leaves and finely produced. The quality of the tea disks directly affect the color of the tea liquid. The liquid should be pure white. In order to protect the tea disk from absorbing other scents or dampness, a layer of oil is applied to the surface and it is wrapped in bamboo paper before being put in a tea basket.
Next is the tencha technique. This includes the choosing and boiling of water. Spring water is the best. The most difficult part of boiling the water is distinguishing the temperature through listening to the sound of boiling water. Alternatively, the quality of the tea leaves can also be used to determine the temperature of the water. Tender tea leaves are brewed with young water. The froth on the tea is also an important factor. It should be pure white in color, lasting, slender and balanced. The longer the liquid is hidden under the froth, the better the quality of the tea. The finer the tea, the easier it is for the tea to dissolve in the water and form froth. In order to highlight the pure white color of the tea, use a black teacup. The teacup should be deep and with a large width. The best tea cups is the rabbit-hair tea cups from Jian’an kiln of that era. The cup is heavy and keeps the tea warm. In addition, when whisking the tea, use a strong whisk or teaspoon. Use a small kettle to boil the water. The spout should be long with a tiny mouth. This makes it easier to tell the temperature.

Zhao Ji And Da Guan Theories Of Tea

All the emperors of the Song Dynasty were tea lovers. They frequently held tea gatherings in the palace. Emperor Huizong, Zhao Ji was the author of the book, Da Guan Theories of Tea.
He was the first emperor in history to write a book on tea. Huizong was a master in the art of tea making and tea, and frequently personally brewed tencha for his officials. Da Guan Theories of Tea has 20 chapters. It records in detail the production place, the environment, the climate, the time and method of harvest, the process of steaming and producing tea, the methods of distinguishing the quality of tea disks, the various equipment and water used in tencha. It also records the color, fragrance and taste of various tea leaves, the baking and storing of tea leaves, the names of tea leaves, etc.

Tencha Technique

Tencha brewing was very common in the Song Dynasty. The popular brewing method was usually tencha. The Japanese monks who came to China to study during the Song Dynasty took back to Japan the tencha brewing method, still in use today. The Japanese art of matcha was born from the Song Dynasty's tencha. Tencha is directly brewed in heated water and not simmered or cooked over charcoal fire. One method is to whisk directly in the tea cup. The other method is to whisk the tea in the tea bowl before ladling the tea into the individual cups.
When brewing tencha, one must first bake the tea disk. If the disc has been produced in the current year, grind immediately after baking. If it is an aged tea disc, first soak in boiling water. Scrape off one or two layers of the oil on the surface before picking it with tea tongs and baking it over a low fire to remove the aged scent. Wrap in paper and beat it before grinding it into powder form. Then pass through a sieve to ensure that the tea is as fine as possible.
Next, boil water. The water must be light, clear, sweet and from a running source. Before brewing tencha, listen for the first boil, the second boil and the third boil... The water temperature after the third boil is most suitable because it is the temperature where the tea is most soluble. Warm the tea cup before adding the tea. Add the sieved tea powder, and add a small amount of water. Make a paste before adding heated water. Whisk the mixture repeatedly until froth appears. The tea liquid should be pure white.
Another method is whisking the tea in a tea bowl. When whisking, use a light the hand to whisk strongly. In the first round of water, add only a small amount. Swirl the water into the cup and do not pour directly.
Make a paste. In the second round, directly pour the water.
In the third round, pour the water while whisking, so that it froths at the surface. In the fourth round, add a little water.
In the fifth round, the amount of water depends on the amount of froth, in the sixth round, add the water while slowly stirring the tea with the whisk. In the seventh round, the tencha is completed. Distribute the tea into the tea cups evenly so that each cup has a balanced amount of froth. Do not add salt as the tea should maintain its original flavor.

Song And Yuan Dynasties Tea Customs

During the Song Dynasty, the production scale expanded greatly. The technique of tea production became even more refined. The famous Dragon and Phoenix tea disk was produced at that time. It was also known as Piancha During production, the mold used to make the tea disk was engraved with a dragon and phoenix design. The court specially sent officials to monitor the process of tribute tea production. Dragon and Phoenix tea was originally 500g per 8 disks. Later, it became 500g per 20 disks.

10 Virtues Of Tea Drinking

To dispel depression, to dispel sleepiness, to increase vitality, to dispel illnesses, to encourage compassion, to show respect, to taste flavors by Asian tea sets, to improve health, tea can touch the heart, tea can uphold morals - Tang. Liu Zhenliang.
Toward the end of the Tang Dynasty and early Song Dynasty, the technique of tea production improved. The way of drinking tea turned from roasting to whisking, also known as tencha.

Method Of Roasting Tea

Tea Roasting is also known as Tea Cooking. The tea used in roasting is a steamed Oolong tea disk. Hold the tea disk by a pair of bamboo tongs and bake above a fire to remove the moisture, making it easier to grind. Bake the tea disk over medium fire, rotating frequently. If the tea leaves were baked dry, bake until it is no longer steaming. If it was sun-dried, bake until tender. After baking, place the tea in a paper bag immediately to avoid moisture. After it is cooled, grind it into granular tea dust. Do not grind into powder. Brush the tea dust into the pan. Cover the pan and shake it lightly. Heat the water over charcoal first before roasting the tea. Do not use fuel that will produce scent or smoke. The quality of the water is very important in roasting tea. Spring water is the best. River water second and well water is the worst. Pour the water into the pot and begin boiling. Small bubbles begin to appear and you can hear light bubbling sounds. This is known as the “first boil." Spoon a little salt into the tea. When the water bubbles continuously, it is known as the "second boil." Scoop a ladle of the heated water aside and use a pair of bamboo chopsticks to stir the water. Use the tea scoop to add the tea dust into the whirlpool and continue cooking. The water from the "second boil" is just right for roasting tea.
Let the tea in the pot continue to boil and bubble. This is known as the "third boil." Pour the ladle of water from the second boil into the tea and you will see the essence of the tea-steamed foam and froth. Place the pot on the coaster and ladle the tea into the bowls. Distribute the foam evenly. Lu Yu believed only the water from the second boil gives the perfect taste of roasted tea. Thick steam, thin foam and light froth are the essence of the tea. Usually, the first three bowls of the tea taste better than the last two. The taste of a good roasted tea is bitter at the first sip and sweet when swallowed.
Due to Lu Yu's efforts, roasted tea became very popular. Steamed Oolong tea was also made into loose tea leaves, coarse tea leaves and powdered tea leaves. Apart from adding salt, some people added garlic, ginger, dates, orange peels or peppermint.

Lu Yu Roasting Tea

The Tang Dynasty usually brewed tea from steamed Oolong tea disks. They focused on the technique of roasting tea. Lu Yu, the Tea Sage, was a master in roasting tea. It was said that during the time of Daizong Emperor. Reverend Zhiji of Longgai Tempel in Jingling (today's Tianmen city of Hubei) was once invited to the palace. The emperor ordered his best tea roaster to roast the best quality tea for the reverend. After the first sip, the reverend set down his tea bowl and did not take another sip. When asked, the reverend answered. "1 only drink tea that is roasted by my disciple, Lu Yu. Other teas taste bland to me." The emperor wanted to meet Lu Yu. Zhiji said, “He is away searching for the best teas and best waters in the world." So, the emperor sent people to search for Lu Yu. When he finally met him, the emperor ordered him to roast a cup of tea for him. Lu Yu roasted a cup of tea and offered it to the emperor. The tea was clear and light green with a delicate fragrance. He took a sip, and the sweetness of the tea filled his mouth. He nodded his head in approval. He agreed only Lu Yu could roast such good tea.

Lu Yu And The Classic Of Tea

During the mid-Tang Dynasty, there were numerous tea poems, tea paintings and tea books, the most famous of which was Lu Yu's Classic of Tea. The Classic of Tea consists of three volumes and ten chapters with approximately seven thousand words. The first chapter is dedicated to the origins of tea-the names of tea and its effects. The second records the equipments used n tea production. The third chapter is on tea production-the suitable time for harvesting tea, ways of harvesting and producing tea. as well as the different varieties and qualities of tea. The fourth chapter is on tea sets in detail. The fifth chapter is on brewing tea. It records methods of baking and roasting tea as well as choosing the most suitable water to brew tea. The sixth chapter is about drinking tea-the history and customs of tea drinking. The seventh chapter talks about the stories of tea and its medicinal virtues. The eighth chapter talks about the famous production areas of tea in the Tang Dynasty The ninth chapter describes the equipments used in picking, making and drinking tea. It discusses which equipments are necessary and which are unnecessary. The tenth chapter is a painting of the content of the Classic of Tea on a silk cloth that can be hung in the living room for easy reference. The Classic of Tea is the first book on tea in the world and has a deep influence on the future tea culture.

Sui And Tang Dynasty Tea Customs

Though the Sui Dynasty did not rule for a long time, Emperor Yang built the Grand Canal, making it possible for the southern tea leaves to be shipped to the north. The economic development during the Tang Dynasty led the production and sale of tea leaves to reach unparalleled heights. The distribution center of tea leaves moved to the Jiangzhe area. During this period both tea and the social culture of China developed rapidly.

Tea In Ancestral Worship

Emperor Wu of the southern Qi Dynasty, Xiao Yu, was an open-minded and frugal emperor, who cared for the welfare of his people. Before his death, he decreed, "Keep my burial frugal. Just offer fruits and tea." He also ordered that everyone should follow this custom.
Tea is not only an antidote for poison or thirst; it can replace wine to entertain guests, as a burial item or in ancestral or religious worship. Its uses, both physical and spiritual, are far beyond its natural attributes. The Buddhists loved tea giving it an even richer cultural meaning. At the same time, Confucians and Taoists also integrated tea-drinking customs. Royals, scholars, Confucians, Taoists and Buddhists supported the drinking of tea.

Tea As A Burial Item

The large number of items evacuated from Lady Hou, Xin Zhui's tomb, included an entire box of tea leaves. This shows tea used to be pan of the burial offerings during the Han Dynasty.

Tea As A Sign Of Honor

Once in the time of the eastern Jin Dynasty, Lu Na, the Minster of Officials entertained prime minister Xie An with fruits and tea. Lu Na's nephew, afraid of offending the prime minister by this meager offering, prepared a table of expensive dishes. Lu Na angrily reprimanded his nephew for being wasteful. His actions had tarnished the honorable and frugal name of his house. Entertaining guests with tea is not miserly, nor is it a sign of arrogance. It is a sign of frugality and honor, and it fits with the pure nature of tea.

The Secret Decree

According to the records in the "Biography of Wei Yao" in the volume "History of Wu" in The History of the Three Kingdoms, the reigning monarch of the Kingdom of Wu, Sun Hao, was a lover of wine. Wei Yao, a Knowledgeable and talented official of his kingdom unfortunately could not hold his drink. To save him from embarrassing himself, Sun Hao secretly changed his wine into a liquid of a similar color, tea. This shows that both tea and wine were beverages that were frequently used in court. Even today, people who cannot hold their alcohol use tea to toast each other.

The “Pageboy Contract”

During the time of the western Han Dynasty, once the lyricist Wang Bao bought a servant Bian Liao from his friend's widow. Bian Liao was unwilling, but there was nothing he could do. He told Wang Bao, “You must clearly state everything you want me to do in a contract. If it isn't stated in the contract, I won’t do it." This became the "Pageboy Contract" that we see today. In the contract, Wang Bao clearly stated "Buying tea in Wuyang" and "Brewing Tea with the tea set."
The contract reveals that even during that time, one had to buy tea from Wuyang (currently the Mt. Peng area in Sichuan), and there were specific tea sets for brewing tea.
Tea drinking further spread toward the mid and lower Yangtze River areas from the Han Dynasty to the time of the Southern and Northern dynasties.

Tea As A Drink

The transition of tea from a medicine and food to a drink is said to have started in the Zhou Dynasty. It is believed that when King Wu attacked King Zhou, Zhou was forced to travel south. Unaccustomed to the climate and food, his soldiers were weakened and fatigued. Prince Zhou ordered his serfs to cook tea leaves in huge pots. This custom spread. By the time of the Han Dynasty drinking tea had become a fashionable custom.

Shennong and the Tea Antidote

The legendary Yan emperor Shennong was known as the pioneer of agriculture. According to legends, one day, Shennong accidentally ate a poisonous herb and immediately felt faint. He dragged himself to the nearest tree. He swallowed the bittersweet leaves and immediately felt better. He recovered soon after. That antidote was what we call tea today. It is not important if Shennong was only a legend. The important point is that even 5,000 years ago, the Chinese used tea leaves. In the beginning, they picked the fresh tea leaves. However, as fresh tea leaves were not suitable for storing or shipping, they slowly began drying and storing tea leaves.

Pre-Sui And Tang Dynasty Tea Customs

China first discovered, grew and used tea leaves. The growth of tea and the related customs in other countries came directly or indirectly from China. Even the pronunciation of the word "tea" originated from Chinese dialects.